James Halliday quotes English wine writer Andrew Jefford in his article about chardonnays in the Weekend Australian Magazine September 1-2, 2012.
"Top Australian Chardonnays can effortlessly compete with the top (white) Burgundies."
James says that "Chardonnay is the most pliable of all the noble grape varieties, bending to the will of the winemaker and to the imperatives of the particular place it is grown."
James then goes on to give examples of the different styles of chardonnay tasted at the Toolangi event held in the Yarra Valley in June.
He says the Toolangi 2010 Estate Chardonnay shows "grapefruit is a major flavour component; intensity, drive and length are features of a wine of great varietal purity that also captures an elusive savoury/nutty complexity."
This compares with the 2010 Toolangi Reserve Chardonnay which "brings together grapefruit zest and juice, white peach and cashew, bound by strong minerality acidity. It shares the length of other Yarra Valley chardonnays but was far less easy to recogonise as Australian."
Both of these wines are taken from the same vineyard, Toolangi's Dixon Creek Vineyard, but with different winemakers applying differing techniques giving as James says "all sorts of possible outcomes."
Click here to download complete article.